Let the Hollyburns begin!

I finally cracked open my Sewaholic Hollyburn pattern, and it is another winner.  I think it has kind of a 40s-meets-70s vibe, while being a classic shape that can be transformed by fabric choice and the little details you choose to add.

For my first version, I used the fullest, shortest style, but lengthened it by several inches to something closer to the middle-length style.  The fabric's cotton sateen from JoAnn's.  I was stuck for something to wear with it, but then schmeebot coincidentally thrifted me a lovely cardigan that works nicely.  Isn't it great when things work out?    It's amazing that I did not already have a matching cardigan given just how many cardigans I have ... but let's not go there!

The skirt is drafted to sit at the waist, but that fit bugs me: I find it more comfortable to have the waistband sit a few inches lower.  I realized this after having already cut out everything, so I just re-cut the waistband two inches longer (it's just a straight strip).  And somehow, miraculously, the skirt fit the new band just fine.

Now the second Hollyburn is the one I really love, because I used a very special fabric my aunt sent me.   It's vintage -- not sure how old, but only 35 inches wide.  Unfortunately there is a permanent fade line where it was folded in half, but I made sure to match up the marks so that they make an upside down 'V' on the front and back of the skirt, and I really don't think it's that noticeable.  I love the bird print (of course ... my love for bird prints is well documented) and the color palette as well.  It's cotton, but somehow does not wrinkle.  It's practically magic fabric, I'm telling you.

I went with the original width of the middle-length Hollyburn version from the package, and narrowed my lengthened waistband for a better fit.  Both skirts are lined with cotton/poly lawn.

I'm working on yet another Hollyburn now ... should have it finished up and photographed before the end of Q2 with any luck.  :)   I really love wearing skirts in the summer, and though they may not make for the most exciting blog fodder, they see more wear than the other types of stuff I sew.  Thus, I plan to eke out a few more before moving on to the next thing.   After the Hollyburn-in-progress, I have some lovely plaid silk dupioni queued ... no pattern chosen yet, but perhaps a trapezoid dirndl would work best.   I never really liked silk dupioni until I threw some in the washing machine and ran it through the dryer.  The resulting fabric is far less precious-looking and thus more useful in my non-fussy everyday wardrobe.  

San Francisco

Last month I traveled to San Francisco, and had a chance to do some shopping.   Happily, our hotel was quite close to Britex, and it did not disappoint!  It is a big narrow store, spread over four or five stories connected by a narrow staircase, and I was up and down quite a bit as I thought of things I wanted to see.  Cut fabrics are sent to the first floor to await you at the register, so that you don't have to lug them about, which makes it easier to navigate the many narrow spaces in the store.

I have been thinking about dolling up some of my plain cardigans a bit, so I found Britex's trims department a delight.  They had lots of paired beaded appliques, nicely displayed in the sort of moveable frames I've seen used for posters or artwork.   Happily, trims are easy to cart home on a plane, so I scooped up a bunch -- four sets of beaded appliques, plus a simpler pair, and some vintage deadstock lace.  Have I done anything with them yet?  Nope, but I will, I swear.

I had heard that Britex was pricy, and it was -- due to the quality of their merchandise.   I wasn't sure if I'd buy fabric, but I did end up with a two-yard remnant of green cotton with pink and yellow woven through it, and could not resist some divine green floral Italian lawn (think Liberty sort of quality, as well as price!) that I will probably be afraid to ever cut into. But hey, I can pull it out and pet it from time to time.

I don't have much sewing time these days, and that will continue in the coming months.   I have (part of) one day a week at most, so I'm continuing to focus on separates because they're usually shorter projects.  (I will have to make some dresses come summer, though!)  I've made a few more short-sleeve Renfrews that I'm quite happy with, and am working on my third Hollyburn skirt now.  I finally got pictures of my first two Hollyburns and I'll post those soon.

Oops (again)

So like two and a half months ago I said I'd be back soon with a post about the  Sewaholic Alma blouses I'd finished over the Winter holidays.   Oops.  What can I say, life has been busy!  I have been squeezing in some sewing here and there, but progress is slow.   I do have a couple more finished garments queued up though.

But first, those Almas.   I am not a huge blouse-wearer.  I usually choose knits: camisoles or tank tops with a cardigan or hoodie is pretty much my above-the-waist uniform.  But I do like these.  I added 3 inches to be bottoms of mine to achieve a more tunic-y length that I can wear with jeans that have a lower rise.

Blouse number one is a black rayon with little purple flowers from Fabric Mart.  As I was finishing it, I realized it would be shorter than I wanted.  I decided to add an extra strip of fabric at the bottom, but didn't have enough left to even piece a band together.  Fortunately Fabric Mart had four more yards in stock, so I ordered two and figured I'd finish my blouse the following weekend.

However, disaster struck: FedEx lost track of my order!   It was discovered and delivered a few days later, but in the meantime I went back online and grabbed the final two yards of the fabric.  So obviously you can expect to see more of this ditzy floral from me in the future -- fortunately it's nice quality and I really like the print.  

You can't even make out the band at the bottom -- even up close -- unless you're hunting for it.  I just measured the circumference of the bottom of the shirt and cut a six-inch wide strip that length.  I attached it so that it's folded double (almost like bias tape).  The extra weight of the doubled fabric makes the shirt hang more nicely.

Here's shirt number two.  On this one I just lengthened the pattern by three inches, and skipped the zipper because it's really not necessary.   However, think the first one is nicer, because of the bottom band and just because the quality of the rayon I used was a bit better.  FWIW, this second fabric was from Fabric Mart too, and the same price as the first one.

Like all Sewaholic patterns, Alma was excellently drafted and a pleasure to sew.  I can definitely see making more of these in the future.  Possibly I'd try a collared version, but I think I'll stick to cap sleeves or no sleeves for layering friendliness.

One final shot -- chosen solely for the cuteness of the dog. BTW these pictures were taken back in January, and it was colder than it looks!

That other hobby that has been stealing my sewing time ...

I've alluded to my new hobby a few times, which in a way, it's not a new hobby at all.   Probably y'all don't remember, but back in 2010 I shared the markers I got for Christmas, and mentioned that I wanted to get back into drawing.  Well, I did some drawing, but it still felt like a struggle and it was soon abandoned.  I tried and gave up a few more times.   I didn't know what I wanted to draw, in part because I didn't know what I could draw.  My ideas just weren't coming out onto the paper right.

A Luscious Lotus.

In November, I stumbled across ATCsForAll.  ATCs is short for "Artist Trading Cards", little baseball-card-sized (2.5 inch by 3.5 inch) artworks that are traded amongst artists.  At ATCsForAll there are a number of ways to trade, but the one that caught my eye was the themed swaps.  A swap host announces their theme in the swap forum on the site, along with the rules for play and the submission deadline.  Typically a swap participant submits 3 or 6 cards, with an optional extra card for the host.    When all the cards are in, the host will return a matching number of cards made by other artists to each participant.

My first ATC from my first swap.

Now this was something I could do.  The theme gave me some focus, plus a deadline (though there is no penalty for dropping out of a swap as long as you inform the host).   The small size of an ATC also helped -- I can still spend hours making one, but it definitely scopes the the undertaking a bit!

One of the cards I'm mailing out tomorrow.

Anyhow, long story short, I joined up and have now participated in a half-dozen swaps, with themes ranging from parakeets to animals wearing winter gear to pink things that are not pink in real life.   And those markers pictured in my post from 2010 are finally getting a workout!  I am not 100 percent happy with every card I make (and sometimes re-do them several times before I'm willing to send them out) but I am making drawings I am proud of, which didn't seem possible just a few months ago.   I think the habit will stick.

Yak rocking some warm woolies.

Since I know my audience here are primarily sewists, I'll not share about drawing and ATCs here regularly unless for some reason this post garners a strong response.  If you want to see more, you can check out my ATC set on Flickr.  And if you want to play too, join ATCsForAll -- as the name suggests, it's for everyone, of all levels of artistic experience, and all mediums (even sewing ... I'm not sure I could sew up anything ATC-sized worth having, though).   I've found it to be a talented, positive, and welcoming group.  If you join or are already a member, look for me there: my username is Lost Cities.

A Vulture does Violence to the letter V --
for the "V, W, X" swap.

Melty trees

I finally made a Pacific Moon for me!   Just like the ones I make for schmeebot, it has a wider waistband, deep pockets, and is made from Ikea home decor fabric.   I did have to add three inches to the length, but that's the only significant change I made.

The fabric is currently available Ikea stock -- They call it Fjallfly,  but schmeebot and I have dubbed it "Melty Trees".  If you look closely at the print, there are all kinds of zany things tucked in there:  bows on trees, mushrooms, transparent houses, newsprint, lost shoes, hedgehogs ...

Here are the back and side views.  I matched the print on the back seam but did not bother on the sides ... too hard to do that and make sure the parts of the design I like most landed on the skirt!

I think it looks a bit puffy in the ass, and would take an inch or two outta there for my next one. (There will be a next one).   schmeebot says it's perfect as-is, leave well enough alone.  What do you think?

There's nothing new to say about the construction of a Pacific Moon, at least not until I actually make the tutorial.  The yoke fabric's quilting cotton as per usual.  I did line mine, with some gold mystery fabric that came in a Fabric Mart bundle.  Oh how I love those bundles!  I've gotten several over the past year, and they've contained some strange and wonderful treasures (and a few WTFs).  Now to wrap my head around them and sew them up into something. 

As you can see from the above, finished garment photography finally happened, so I will be showing you my Sewaholic Almas soon.   This month does not hold a lot of sewing time for me, but I'm certainly still thinking about it (mainly while driving to and from work ... it's a 25 mile commute).  So maybe I'll share my half-baked ideas, if only so I don't forget them.  And then there's that other hobby I keep mentioning.  So, expect a few more posts from me soon!

2012, over and out

Well folks, 2012 was definitely not as prolific as 2011 was sewing-wise.   Or so I thought.  As it turns out, the total count items-wise is pretty close:  I am coming up with 30-ish items, same as last year.  But where last year I made a lot of dresses (14 -- egad!), this year I made more simple skirts and tops, and maximized pattern re-use.  The numbers I'm coming up with for 2012 are:

Dresses:  6  (2 Sewaholic Cambies, and 4 vintage Butterick 6075)

Tops:  10  (8 Sewaholic Renfrews, including several I failed to blog, and 1 Sewaholic Alma, which has been finished since November but I have neglected to photograph!)

Skirts for me:  8 (2 Simplicity 2655 and a bunch of "moon" variants, some of which I have failed to blog)

Skirts for schmeebot:  10 (all Pacific Moons ... she lives in them, which is the best compliment a sewist could possibly have!)


Not counted in my numbers above was my big fail of the year, my Stegosaurus butt Colette Ginger, as it never reached the finish line.   I understand what went wrong there and need to give that pattern another try.  Granted, I may tackle the not-on-the-bias version first this time!  My other fail of the year was my first Cambie -- given that it was basically a wearable muslin anyhow, no big deal.  It's wearable, but not comfortable!  Oh, and this skirt also has to go ... too dirndl-y to sit as close to the waist as it does.

So what was good this year?  I made a lot of wearable (if not particularly exciting) items!   I think my favorite for the year is still the very first thing I posted, my first Butterick 6075.  It's a little loose-fitting, but I love the fabric and the style.  But honestly?  I rarely wear dresses in real life.   When I sew dresses, it's mainly for the joy of making something pretty.

With the Sewaholic Renfrew, I got really excited about sewing knits.  I had made a few knit tops before, but things really clicked somehow with the Renfrew.   It's just a great pattern.  I've made it as directed, plus a sleeveless variant that works well for me because I wear cardigans a lot.  I think in the future I may draft it a few inches longer rather than using the bottom band, which doesn't always sit well on me.  Especially now that I have a place to set up my coverstitch machine again ...

And skirts!  I wear skirts a lot ... far more than pants these days.  I don't think I could have too many!  Alas, my most favorite skirts are still store-bought ones ... surely I can change that in 2013?  My favorite skirt for the year is one of the Pacific Moons I made for schmeebot, but I have more of the fabric and will be making myself one, hopefully soon.

This was kind of a crazy year, what with buying and moving into our first house, plus a new hobby that is now vying for my sewing time.  That whole job thing keeps me pretty busy too, naturally.  I'm still struggling with getting photos of myself in the stuff I make -- I HATE being photographed!  But seeing the garments on me helps me see how I can improve the fit, so I need to try harder.  Plus I know it helps other people who may be considering the same patterns I'm using.  So I'll try to do better ... too bad it's gray and rainy today (and probably tomorrow too).

Hm, so what do I want to sew next year?   I wear skirts a lot so I need to work on making some I love as much as my favorite store-bought ones, many of which have fun pockets or interesting details.   I'd like to make more tops too -- I like my Alma and will make more, and the Renfrew is evergreen as far as I'm concerned!  And finally, dresses -- I would love to make a few more vintage dresses, even if they don't see much wear.  I just love the process.   So, I guess what I want to sew next year is ... everything.  No surprise there.

Anyhow, I hope y'all have had a good 2012, and may 2013 bring you good fortune!  I'll leave you with two skirts I made back in May but failed to blog ... probably because I meant to get pictures of me wearing them.   Well, I think that ship has sailed, so here they are adorning the fence at my old house.  The red one uses the skirt pieces from Butterick 6075.

The olive one is a longer, fuller version of the "New Moon" skirt I have made so many times ... I guess it's a "Full Moon", ha ha.  Unfortunately I think it is gonna get purged from my closet: it's too lumpy at the waist will all those gathers.  

Last Pacific Moons of 2012

I sewed up two more Pacific Moons for schmeebot before Christmas.  I was planning on three but my Winter vacation is slipping away and I still have so much I want to do ...

Both of these skirts are made from Ikea fabric and facings purchased from Hobby Lobby recently.   Schmeebot is especially enamored of the white fabric with blue-black (depending on lighting) splotches.  Unfortunately I struggled a bit with pattern layout:  I wanted both the center of the "swirl" and some of the white space at the edge of the cluster to be on the skirt front, but the skirt pieces weren't big enough to do both.  I decided to prioritize the center of the cluster, and once I did that there wasn't really a need to keep the waistband white (which I didn't quite manage anyhow!)  Also, at the time I was cutting this, we didn't have much of this fabric and I was trying to be a little thrifty in my layout.   n To cut to the chase: if I make another skirt with this fabric I will do it differently!   Yesterday I bought another 3.5 yards of it so we are set for more splotchy skirts than we possibly need.  :)

The second fabric was my pick -- I can't pass up anything with a bird on it!  (Unfortunately I don't see this one on Ikea's site any more.)  The pattern layout was more successful here: I cut the back pieces on the cross grain because that worked out better with the print.

Up until now, schmeebot has purchased all the Ikea fabric and mailed it to me.  But her local Ikeas were all out of the splotchy fabric, and mine had just gotten it back in stock.  So I swung by to pick some up -- I had an appointment that took me nearby anyhow.  I hadn't Ikea-ed in a while: nowadays Ikea has a cutting table where you can help yourself to fabric, which is very cool ... except all the scissors are right-handed!   Come on Ikea, lots of creative peeps are lefties! 

I plan on returning soon with a lame year wrap-up post before the New Year ... I haven't tallied things up  but I suspect 2012 will be The Year I Sewed A Few Things Many Times.